In the relentless quest for sporting excellence, innovation is of paramount importance. In this era of the Olympic Games, cutting-edge technologies are essential to optimize athlete performance.
Climbing is no exception.
In the relentless quest for sporting excellence, innovation is of paramount importance. In this era of the Olympic Games, cutting-edge technologies are essential to optimize athlete performance.
Climbing is no exception.
Monday, February 26, 2024
In the relentless quest for sporting excellence, innovation is of paramount importance. In this era of the Olympic Games, cutting-edge technologies are essential to optimize athlete performance.
Climbing is no exception.
Since its release in 2019, the SmartBoard has taken the world of professional climbing by storm.
This tool was imagined and designed by Laurent Vigouroux, lecturer and biomechanics researcher specializing in upper limbs at Aix-Marseille University's Institut des Sciences du Mouvement (Carnot STAR research unit).
The SmartBoard is a sensor-equipped grip that measures the climber's action and establishes his or her physiological profile (strength, endurance, resistance, power, etc.). The data is then communicated to an application, which translates it into useful information for climbers and trainers.
This innovation is all the more remarkable in that it is the first to be marketed and adopted by climbing federations, clubs and gyms in France -
a major breakthrough in the climbing world!
Since its release, the Fédération Française de la Montagne et de l'Escalade (FFME ) has been using this technology to deepen its knowledge of climbing training.
Today, thanks to this new tool, it's possible to couple empirical knowledge (coaches' expertise and training volumes applied to other sporting disciplines) with personalized data, and thus adapt training for each climber. Just as running has its connected watch, climbing now has its SmartBoard.
In 2023, it will become a tool for applied research as part of the PPR Programme Prioritaire de Recherche "Sport de très haute performance" PerfAnalytics. It is jointly led by Laurent Vigouroux (ISM, Aix-Marseille University), INRIA Grenoble Rhône-Alpes, Grenoble Alpes University and includes numerous partners such as the FFME and INSEP.
This innovative and ambitious collaboration aims to help top-level climbers for the Paris 2024 Olympics by optimizing their performance, like Orianne Bertone, French champion and already qualified for the 2024 Olympics. At the end of the project, training protocols and injury prevention strategies will be made available to sports federations.
the SmartBoard is designed for professional climbers (clubs, private gyms, trainers, etc.), My SmartBoard is accessible, and designed for individual climbers. Lighter and more agile, this new tool is suitable for home use, offering amateurs the chance to benefit from cutting-edge technology.
Like the SmartBoard "Pro", this instrument is able to provide quantified information on the training protocols to be carried out, according to the climber's physiology.
This innovation, recognized and symbolized by INSEP's Coup de Coeur special award, underlines its significant impact on the world of climbing.
On the eve of the 2024 Olympic Games, the SmartBoard is shaping up to be an indispensable ally for French climbers in their quest for Olympic medals. From fundamental research to accessibility for all, this innovation embodies the spirit of excellence and innovation that drives the world of sport, opening up new prospects for the future of climbing training.